The wind off the East Sea does not merely blow; it carries the weight of salt, diesel, and drying ocean life. In Gangneung, a coastal city on South Korea’s eastern spine, the horizon is a bruised shade of indigo that bleeds into the ink-black depths of the water. On the docks of Jumunjin Market, the air smells of brine and woodsmoke. Here, the local economy is powered by the ojingeo—the common squid. Decades of tradition have turned this cephalopod into everything from sundae (blood sausage) to sun-dried snacks strung up like laundry along the shoreline. Yet, the most compelling iteration of the squid is found inside a wafer cone: a jet-black, soft-serve swirl that tastes of the tide and the sugar refinery in equal measure.
The Brine and the Bloom: A Monochromatic Obsession
Gangneung is a city defined by its water. While Seoul rushes toward a neon-lit future, this coastal outpost remains tethered to the rhythm of the tides. The squid ink ice cream of Jumunjin is not a gimmick born of the Instagram era, though its striking aesthetic certainly fuels the digital feed. Instead, it is a culinary homage to a creature that has sustained the Gangwon province for centuries.
Squid ink, or meokmul, is traditionally prized in Korean cuisine for its deep umami notes and supposed health benefits. In Gangneung, the transition from savory soups to frozen desserts was a natural evolution of the city’s creative food scene. The ink provides a velvet texture and a muted, earthy salinity that cuts through the cloying sweetness characteristic of most soft serves. It is a monochromatic reflection of the rocky coastline—the black basalt against the white sea foam.
Market Theatre at Jumunjin
To find the source, one must navigate the wet floors and shouting vendors of the Jumunjin Fish Market. This is the largest seafood market on the East Coast, established in 1936. At the crack of dawn, the auctions are a blur of rubber boots and flapping tails, but by midday, the focus shifts to the small stalls lining the perimeter.
The most famous purveyor is found near the entrance of the "Dried Fish Market" section. The machine hums, extruding a matte-black ribbon of cream into a cone often topped with a singular, tiny dried squid or a dusting of roasted grain powder. At a stall like Masiwa, the squid ink bread (pang) and ice cream are the primary draws. The ice cream here is remarkably smooth. There is no grit, only a slow-blooming richness that hints at the ocean without being overtly fishy. It is the taste of salted caramel’s moody, gothic cousin.
The Science of the Swirl
The production of true squid ink ice cream requires a delicate balance. Too much ink and the bitterness overwhelms the cream; too little, and the colour fades to an unappealing slate grey. The vendors in Gangneung have perfected a blend that involves high-fat milk sourced from the dairies of the nearby Daegwallyeong highlands.
When the ink is whisked into the dairy base, it acts as a natural stabiliser. The resulting texture is denser than standard vanilla. Locals often pair the black swirl with a side of hotteok (sweet syrupy pancakes) or, more traditionally, inside a squid-shaped waffle ironed to a crisp golden brown. The contrast of the hot, doughy bread and the freezing, midnight-black cream is the definitive Gangneung snack experience.
Beyond the Cone: Coffee and Kelp
Gangneung’s reputation as a dairy and dessert destination is bolstered by its secondary identity: the Coffee Capital of South Korea. After the Korean War, the city became a hub for high-quality brews, eventually leading to the creation of the Anmok Coffee Street. The squid ink trend has bled into this culture as well.
At Terarosa Coffee, a sprawling industrial-chic roastery that put Gangneung on the global specialty coffee map, the commitment to local flavours is evident. While they focus on the bean, the surrounding cafes have followed suit with "Ocean Lattes" and charcoal-based pastries. However, for a true deep-sea immersion, one should seek out the kelp-infused variations often sold alongside the squid ink cones. These green-hued accompaniments provide a vegetal snap that cleanses the palate between bites of the rich, black cream.
The Cinematic Shoreline
Eating ice cream in Gangneung is a performative act, usually conducted while walking toward the breakwaters. A ten-minute drive from the market brings visitors to the Jumunjin Breakwater, famously used as a filming location for the television drama Guardian: The Lonely and Great God (Goblin).
Standing on the concrete pier, cone in hand, the grey-blue waves of the East Sea crash against the tetrapods. The ice cream begins to melt, a dark streak running down the hand, mimicking the calligraphy of the region’s ancient scholars. There is a specific quietude here, a sense of being at the edge of the world. The squid ink ice cream is not just a treat; it is a sensory bridge between the deep, cold waters and the warmth of the coastal sun.
A Legacy in Ink
As the sun sets over the Odaesan mountains to the west, the lights of the squid boats—the ojingeo-chaebalgiseon—begin to flicker on the horizon. These boats use powerful lamps to lure the squid to the surface, creating a Second City of light on the water.
The squid ink ice cream of Gangneung remains a testament to the city’s ability to reinvent its heritage. It takes an industrial byproduct of the fishing trade and transforms it into a luxury of the palate. For the traveller, it is a reminder that the best flavours are often found in the shadows, in the dark ink of a creature that has defined this coast since the first nets were cast. To eat it is to consume a piece of the East Sea’s soul, cold, sweet, and stained with the brine of the deep.
If you go
Getting There: Take the KTX-Eum train from Seoul Station to Gangneung Station (approx. 2 hours). From the station, a 20-minute taxi ride will bring you to Jumunjin Market.
Where to Eat:
- Masiwa (Jumunjin): Known for the original squid ink soft serve and the "Squid Bread" filled with sweet bean and ink.
- Gangneung Coffee Street (Anmok Beach): Visit for a follow-up caffeine fix at Café L.Bean, which offers views of the water and a variety of ink-infused tarts.
- Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch: For the purest milk base before it reaches the sea, visit the highlands where the cows graze above the clouds.
Best Time to Visit: September to November is peak squid season. The weather is crisp, the skies are clear, and the squid boats are out in full force, lighting up the night horizon.