Selarón Steps
Connecting the bohemian hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa to the more urban Lapa, these 215 steps serve as an open-air mosaic museum and one of Rio de Janeiro’s most iconic photo opportunities.
What to expect
The Escadaria Selarón is a vertical kaleidoscope of hand-painted ceramic tiles, mirrors, and porcelain shards. As you ascend from the base on Rua Joaquim Silva, the sheer density of detail becomes hypnotic. You will see tiles representing everything from football teams and religious icons to intricate patterns from over 60 countries.
Look closely at the lower sections near the street level; this is where you’ll find the artist’s signature motif: a recurring portrait of a pregnant African woman. The steps are rarely quiet—expect a vibrant atmosphere of local musicians busking and crowds maneuvering for the perfect angle. The staircase is not just a walkway; it is a collaborative portrait of global culture fused into the rugged concrete of Rio.
History & significance
The staircase was the life’s work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón, who began "renovating" the dilapidated steps outside his home in 1990. Initially, he scavenged tiles from construction sites and debris; as his project gained notoriety, travelers began bringing tiles from their home countries to contribute to the mosaic. Selarón famously described the work as "a great mad dream" that would only end upon his death. He was found deceased on the steps in 2013, effectively freezing the masterpiece in its final, chaotic glory. Today, it stands as a testament to self-funded public art and the communal spirit of Lapa.
Practical tips
- Opening hours: The steps are a public thoroughfare and are open 24 hours a day. However, it is strongly advised to visit only during daylight hours for safety.
- Tickets: There is no entrance fee.
- Best time to visit: Arrive before 9:00 AM on a weekday. By mid-morning, tour buses arrive, and the steps become so crowded that capturing a clear photo without dozens of strangers in the background is nearly impossible.
- Safety: While popular, the immediate area can be sketchy at night. Keep your smartphone and camera secured and be wary of pickpockets, who thrive in the tight, crowded sections of the staircase.
Getting there
The steps are located on Rua Manuel Carneiro, bridging the gap between Lapa and Santa Teresa. The easiest way to arrive is to take the Rio Metro to Carioca Station (Line 1 or 2) and take a 10-minute walk through the Lapa district. Alternatively, a taxi or rideshare can drop you at the base on Rua Joaquim Silva.
Nearby
- Arcos da Lapa: A five-minute walk away, these massive 18th-century Carioca Aqueducts define the Lapa skyline and are best viewed as you walk toward the Metropolitan Cathedral.
- Bar do Mineiro: Located a short, steep walk up into Santa Teresa, this legendary spot is mandatory for a post-staircase lunch. Order the feijoada (black bean stew) and a caipirinha.
- Convento de Santa Teresa: Take a 15-minute winding walk uphill to visit this historic convent and enjoy panoramic views of the city that most tourists overlook.