Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is Rome’s quintessential theatrical stage, a sprawling oval of Baroque architecture that preserves the exact footprint and competitive soul of an ancient Olympic-style arena.

What to expect

The piazza is dominated by its three fountains, primarily Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) at its center. This masterpiece features an Egyptian obelisk surrounded by four muscular river gods representing the Danube, Ganges, Nile, and Rio de la Plata. To the north and south flanking the square are Giacomo della Porta's Fontana del Nettuno and the Fontana del Moro.

Beyond the water features, the square is lined with ochre-colored Renaissance palazzi, outdoor cafes, and portrait artists. Most importantly, visitors can descend into the Stadio di Domiziano—the subterranean archaeological site located near the northern curve of the square—where original travertine arches and brickwork sit five meters below the modern street, offering a literal cross-section of Roman history.

History & significance

Commissioned by Emperor Domitian in 86 AD, this site originally served as a stadium for agones (athletic contests), from which the piazza draws its name (in agone morphed into navona). Unlike the Roman Colosseum, which hosted gladiatorial combat, this space was dedicated to foot races and gymnastics. In the 17th century, Pope Innocent X, whose family palace (Palazzo Pamphili) overlooks the square, transformed the space into a Baroque showcase. The rivalry between Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini, the architect of the adjacent Sant’Agnese in Agone church, is etched forever into the architecture, representing the pinnacle of 17th-century Roman artistic ambition.

Practical tips

Best Time: Arrive before 8:30 AM to photograph the fountains without crowds. Alternatively, visit after 10:00 PM when the square is illuminated and the temperature drops.
Underground Stadium: The Stadio di Domiziano entrance is located at Via di Tor Sanguigna, 3. Entry requires a separate ticket (usually around €9–€10). Hours are typically 10:00 AM–7:00 PM daily.
Dining: Exercise extreme caution with restaurants directly on the piazza, as they are notorious "tourist traps" with inflated prices and mediocre quality. Walk two streets away into the Parione neighborhood for authentic Roman fare.

Getting there

Piazza Navona is situated in the historic center (Centro Storico), roughly a 10-minute walk from the Pantheon. There is no metro station nearby; the closest stops are Barberini or Spagna (Line A), both of which require a 20-minute walk. It is best accessed via the #87, #492, or #628 bus lines, which drop you on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, just a three-minute walk from the square.

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