The smell of Honolulu is immediate: a thick, humid collision of ocean salt, aviation fuel, and double-bloom plumeria. This is a city of sharp contrasts, where 40-storey brutalist towers throw long shadows over turquoise lagoons, and where the morning commute is just as likely to involve a surfboard as a Lexus. Honolulu is often dismissed by purists as a concrete jungle that happens to have a beach, but to overlook the capital is to miss the complicated, rhythmic heart of Hawaii. It is a place of massive botanical gardens, gritty noodle shops, and a royal history that remains palpable in the cool air of its stone palaces.
Waikiki: Beyond the Mai Tai
While seasoned travellers often swear by the North Shore, ignoring Waikiki is a mistake. This is the epicentre of Pacific tourism for a reason. The crescent of sand between the Duke Kahanamoku Statue and the Kapahulu Groin is world-class, even if it is crowded. For a quieter swim, head away from the Royal Hawaiian Hotel (the "Pink Palace") toward Sans Souci Beach near the Kapiʻolani Park. The water is shallower, the crowds thinner, and the view of Diamond Head (Le’ahi) remains unobstructed.
Architecture enthusiasts should walk through the mid-century modern lobbies of the hotels along Kalakaua Avenue. The Laylow offers a curated 1960s aesthetic, while the Moana Surfrider—opened in 1901—retains its Victorian colonnades. For a sunset drink without the "plastic lei" artifice, House Without A Key at the Halekulani provides the gold standard. Order a Mai Tai (theirs features a signature lime foam) and watch a former Miss Hawaii dance hula under a century-old kiawe tree as the sun dips below the horizon.
Chinatown and the Art of the Bowl
The most exciting culinary shifts in Honolulu aren't happening on the beach; they are concentrated in the historic Chinatown district. Centred around Maunakea and Smith Streets, this neighbourhood balances traditional wet markets with high-concept dining. Start the morning at Char Hung Sut for manapua (steamed char siu pork buns) and crispy gau gee. For lunch, join the queue at The Pig and the Lady. Andrew Le’s modern Vietnamese menu—specifically the pho French dip and the Burmese tea leaf salad—has earned national acclaim for good reason.
A few blocks away, Senia offers "refined regional cuisine" that highlights local ingredients like charred Kona abalone and Maui onions. On the first Friday of every month, the area transforms into an open-air block party for First Friday, where galleries stay late and the bars, like Murphy’s Progressive Grill or Manifest, spill onto the pavement. It is gritty, loud, and offers a necessary counterpoint to the manicured perfection of the resort zones.
Royal History and the Paili Highway
Honolulu is the only city in the United States that boasts a royal palace. ‘Iolani Palace, completed in 1882 for King Kalākaua, is an essential stop for anyone wanting to understand the sovereign history of the islands and the 1893 overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom. The architecture is "American Florentine," featuring the first electric lights in Hawaii—installed before the White House had them. Reservations are mandatory for the guided tours, which cover the throne room and the private suites where Queen Liliʻuokalani was later imprisoned.
After the palace, drive twenty minutes north on the Pali Highway to the Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout. Here, the wind howls through the volcanic cliffs with such force it can knock a grown adult off balance. This was the site of the 1795 Battle of Nuʻuanu, where King Kamehameha I consolidated his power. The view provides a staggering perspective of the windward coast, from the turquoise depths of Kaneohe Bay to the jagged spikes of the Koʻolau Range.
Kaka’ako: Murals and Microbrews
Located between Downtown and Waikiki, Kaka’ako is a former industrial district of warehouses and auto-body shops that has been rebranded as a street-art hub. The POW! WOW! Hawaii festival has left almost every brick wall covered in large-scale murals by international artists. The best way to see it is on foot, starting at the SALT at Our Kakaʻako complex.
This is the city’s craft beer playground. Aloha Beer Co. on Queen Street offers a sprawling taproom and a "secret" speakeasy, while Hana Koa Brewing Co. serves bold IPAs in a massive refurbished warehouse. On Saturday mornings, the Kakaʻako Farmers Market is where locals buy hand-pressed poi, fresh mangoes, and artisanal sourdough. Avoid the mall food courts and instead find the roving food trucks—look for Chubby’s Burgers for a grass-fed smash burger that rivals anything on the mainland.
Hiking the Ridges
The most famous hike in Honolulu is Diamond Head, but the paved path and heavy foot traffic can feel like a theme park. For a more rugged experience, head to the Tantalus Lookout at Puʻu ʻUalakaʻa State Wayward Park. From here, the Manoa Falls trail leads into a literal rainforest. The 1.6-mile round trip ends at a 150-foot waterfall; the path is often muddy and shaded by ancient banyan trees and bamboo groves.
For those with a higher fitness level, the Koko Head Crater Trail consists of 1,048 wooden "stairs" (former railway ties from WWII). It is a punishing, vertical climb that offers the best panoramic view of Hanauma Bay and the island of Molokai on clear days. Start at 6:00 AM to avoid the midday heat, and bring more water than you think you need.
The Raw Soul of Ala Moana
Ala Moana is often associated with the world's largest open-air shopping centre, but the real draw is the Ala Moana Beach Park across the street. This is where Honolulu residents spend their weekends. There are no hotel loungers for hire here—just families grilling shoyu chicken under the shade of ironwood trees and locals swimming laps in the calm, reef-protected waters of Magic Island.
Finish the afternoon with a visit to the Honolulu Museum of Art (HoMA). Its collection is surprisingly deep, featuring works by Georgia O’Keeffe—who spent time in Hawaii in 1939—and an extensive collection of Asian and Pan-Pacific art. The building itself, with its open-air courtyards and water features, is a masterpiece of tropical design.
If you go
When to visit: Honolulu is a year-round destination, but the most pleasant weather is during the shoulder seasons of April to June or September to November. December and January are the wettest months, though rain usually passes in ten-minute bursts.
Getting around: If staying purely in Waikiki and Downtown, the "TheBus" system is remarkably efficient and affordable. For exploring the ridges or the windward side, hire a car for a day or two. Ride-share services like Uber and Lyft are plentiful but expensive during peak traffic hours (locally known as "The H-1 rush").
Etiquette: Always remove your shoes before entering a local home. Never touch sea turtles (Honu) or monk seals on the beach; it is a federal offence and carries heavy fines. Finally, "Aloha" is not just a greeting; it is a legal requirement of the state's spirit—patience and kindness at intersections and in queues will get you much further than a New York minute.
10 best things to do in Honolulu
- Waikiki Beach
- Pearl Harbor National Memorial
- Diamond Head State Monument
- Iolani Palace
- Bishop Museum
- Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
- Foster Botanical Garden
- Ala Moana Center
- Shangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture & Design
- Manoa Falls